Fontanafredda, Barolo
From a small producer at Bruno Rocca in Barbaresco, to one of the biggest in Barolo. Fontanafredda is a large estate, fomerly a royal one belonging to the King of Piemonte, Vittorio Emanuele II, who subsequently became the first king of all Italy following unification in 1871.
The estate contains the winery, and a hotel and restaurant as well as a beautiful woods where one can take a peaceful walk and read soothing quotes on boards spaced liberally in the course of the walk. The estate is now owned by Piedmont entrepreneur Oscar Farinetti, the owner of the Italian supermarket chain with the fantastic name of Eataly, and it is clear that Fontanafredda is now first and foremost a serious money making enterprise.
They have 120 hectares under vine, 40 of which are rented and the remainder owned. The wine is generally aged in large Slavonian oak botti of 140hl. They have two different styles of ageing for Barolo – the Fontanafredda range, which has more tannin; and the Mirafiore, their premium range, which is more elegant.
They make wine from Dolcetto, Barbera, a variety of Barolos and a ‘Methodo Classico’ sparkling wine from 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay and in total make around 8.5 million bottles a year.
The tour of the cellars is indeed impressive, given their age – see the pictures above – and a visit to the lake and the woods worthwhile.
Tasting
The tasting was carried out in a theatre style setup in the reception building. Whilst delivering this should have meant we could hear our hostess better, they had failed to realise that the theatre needs to be in an enclosed space, not separated from the noisy restaurant by a few flimsy drapes.
The wine was served from the fridge; fair enough on a hot day, but the fridge was too cold and so the tasting was ineffective for the first five minutes. In addition, the hostess wanted to use one glass for all three tastings, which would have been fine, were we are allowed more than five minutes between them. In my view, Fontanafredda could consider a more leisurely approach to allow their guests to appreciate the wines.
1. Methodo Classico. Rose. 90% PN and 20% C. 2012.
46 months on lees.
Appearance: Pale copper
Nose: Peach and a little toast
Palate: Crisp palate off peach with a citrus edge. A bright mousse. Some yeast on the finish.
Mole rating: (3) – Good.
2. Barolo ‘Property’ 2013.
Appearance: Ruby with an orange edge
Nose: Bright red cherry and jasmin flower.
Palate: Refined, smooth red cherry and pepper. Tannin barely perceptible and seems to have been smoothed out in the process – odd and ultimately unsatisfying.
Mole rating: (3) – Good.
3. Barolo ‘La Rosa’ Cru 2011.
Grown on sandy soil and aged 1 year in large and then 1 year in small casks, followed by a year in bottle.
Appearance: Intense ruby red, very dark for a Barolo
Nose: Confected jam
Palate: Medium minus tannin, blackberry and strawberry jam.
Mole rating: (3) – Good.